First Attempt at Cutwork

12.02.09

Earlier this summer I heard about the new Bernina Cutwork Tool, and this weekend I used one for the first time! I created what I thought would be a relatively simple design to see what would happen. More work is needed on perfecting the settings in the software, but here are the results of this first attempt.

Cutwork Star DiagramThis is the design that I started out with (created in CorelDRAW). For version 1 of the design, I imported the diagram into the Bernina Cutwork Software and used the tools available to transform the design into stitches with some parts cut out (the squares and the central star – all shaded grey). The stitchout for this was fit for nothing other than the garbage! The problem – I knew that it was a good idea to do some “running before” stitches to stabilize the space to be cut out, but did not know what a good offset would be, so I used an offset of 0.6mm. When the cutwork tool did it’s thing, it cut up all the “running before” stitches, so I ended up with some holes with very frayed edges! Further investigation (in the online manual) recommends an offset of 0.8mm.

For version 2 of the design I decided to go back to the Bernina Embroidery Software to create all the non-cutwork stitches, and only use the Bernina Cutwork Software to create the actual cutwork stitches. Here are the results!

Cutwork Tool 01This is all the “non-cutwork” stitching. I figured it was probably a good idea to do as much of this as possible before doing any cutting to maintain as much stability as possible in the fabric. I am using DellaQ’s silk taffeta (maybe not such a good idea for a first attempt!) backed with OESD Fusible Polymesh, and OESD Heavyweight Tear-Away in the hoop. I pinned the silk in place and then stitched out a tackdown line to ensure the fabric would not move.

Cutwork Tool 02The first part of the cutting process is the “running before” stitches. As mentioned above, I set the offset to 0.8mm – any smaller and these stitches get cut out!

Cutwork Tool 03Now the machine is telling me it is ready to start cutting with the tool set to Cut 1.

Cutwork Tool 04Here is the actual Bernina Cutwork Tool! You have hopefully already figured out that it works with the embroidery module. I am using the #26 foot. The tool fits into the needle casing, and the blade itself is about 2mm wide and 3/8″ long. The white dial rotates and has four settings, 1, 2, 3, and 4. Here it is in position 1.

Cutwork Tool 05The first round of cutting has been done. The left and right sides of the square have been cut – it’s a pretty clean line, more visible on the left than on the right. And just inside the “running before” stitches!

Cutwork Tool 06Now the machine is telling me it is ready for Cut 2.

Cutwork Tool 07It’s actually very easy to move from cutting position 1 to 2. Sitting down is probably a good thing – just so that you can see what you are doing!

Cutwork Tool 08After cut 2, four points on the star have been cut. The blade on the Bernina Cutwork Tool can essentially set to 4 different angles. Vertical and horizontal are always going to be very clean cuts, as are cuts at 45 degrees in both directions. Everything else is going to be cut using the optimum combination of vertical, horizontal and 45 degree cuts. The white showing in the center star is where the silk has begun to lift up, revealing the stabilizer underneath.

Cutwork Tool 09Now the machine is telling me it is ready for cut 3.

Cutwork Tool 1 054

Cutwork Tool 11And finally it is ready for cut 4!

Cutwork Tool 12

Cutwork Tool 13All the cutting has been done! A lot of the pieces are beginning to lift out of their own accord. At this point I removed the hoop from the machine so that I could gently remove all of the pieces which had been cut out. If I had thought about it in advance, I would have done this over the garbage can. As it is, I ended up with a lot of tiny pieces of fabric and stabilizer all over the floor! Some pieces needed a little help to come out, but only a few threads here and there needed clipping.

Cutwork Tool 14Here all the pieces have been removed. Some of the edges are cleaner than others. The fact that silk frays a lot anyway probably didn’t help me. A nice crisp fabric would give the best results – I have read that using spray starch on the fabric gives it a great hand for the cutting. However, I was not about to start spraying starch onto the silk!

Cutwork Tool 15Here are the results after the satin finishing stitch around the edges of the cutwork. You may notice that the larger star in the center has changed color, and is now turquoise. This is now showing version 3! I neglected to use some water soluble stabilizer underneath the satin stitches on version 2 – and the result was not a pretty sight! The extra stabilizer is necessary to give the satin stitch a solid foundation for stitching on. Without it, one side of the satin stitch is tring to stitch into nothing and the results are definitely not pretty. The settings for the satin stitch need some work. In places the “running before” stitches are showing through. I’ll let you know what I come up with to solve this problem!

Cutwork Tool 16

I’m not sure if curiosity or the need for some sanity lead me to stitch the design out again, this time without doing the actual cutting. I wanted to have something to compare against, to see how clean the cutwork is when it is finished. When I have found the correct settings for the final satin finishing stitch, I think the finished cutwork will be very clean indeed!

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6 Responses to “First Attempt at Cutwork”

  1. Teri says on :

    Sarah, this is very amazing. I like the whole process and the results it gives.

    Teri

  2. Grace Grimsley says on :

    I am so happy to see your cut work story. I plan on getting the tool after the holidays. I have ordered your feathers, circles and hearts from my dealer but they are not in yet. Can’t wait. Your story made everything so clear. Thanks so much. Grace

  3. Mary Lou says on :

    After seeing the finished product in class yesterday, I decided to buy the cutwork tool. Thank you for taking the time to give such detailed information. Your design is beautiful.

  4. Sheila H. says on :

    I’m so happy to see your notes and photos. I’m just waiting for my cutwork tool to arrive at the dealer. Your experience will help so many of us out. Thanks.

  5. CJ Tinkle says on :

    Sarah, I’ve recently discoverd your Bedazzled designs, wow, just stunning! Is there any chance that you will be making a modified version or future design utilizing the cutwork software and tool, versus the AccuQuilt dies to match?

  6. Sarah says on :

    Hello CJ,
    I have no plans to create a cutwork version of the GO! Be Dazzled designs. The AccuQuilt GO! dies do a much better job of cutting the applique shapes – a lot faster and much more accurate. The dies used in this project are all licensed to AccuQuilt, so I’m actually not quite sure if there would be any copyright issues in creating a cutwork version, even if I was thinking of doing it!
    Hope this helps.
    Sarah :-)

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